Why one restaurant chef still cooks his grandma's recipes
On his culinary quest that has included two James Beard
Awards and countless "best of" restaurant mentions, chef
Gavin Kaysen has amassed an impressive list of
mentors: Daniel Boulud, Thomas Keller, Paul Bocuse —
and Grandma Dorothy.
"Dorothy, my father's mom, was my biggest influence
growing up. A home cook in the truest form, she taught
me how to cook," said Kaysen, who's based in
Minneapolis. "She loved taking care of us, cooking for us
and showing me how."
His parents both had demanding jobs, so Kaysen took on
dinner duty to take one thing off their plates, tapping into
what he learned from his grandma and bringing his family
around the dinner table at the end of a long day.
One cold winter day decades ago, the future chef
whipped up one of the first recipes his grandmother
Dorothy Kaysen taught him. It was her signature Sunday
recipe: chicken and dumplings.
"Everyone came in from outside to warm up together
over this meal," he recalled. "I had already known that
this meal felt like a hug in a bowl. But at that moment, it
clicked that cooking can be the basis of connection."
To this day, "I can feel her energy every time I cook and
eat that dish."
Kaysen didn't realize it at the time, but his grandmother
was giving him a master class in key techniques that
would serve him well in his culinary career. Chicken and dumplings displays how to make chicken stock, how to
cut different shapes of vegetables, how to make a roux,
and more, Kaysen said.
Sure, he can whip up dishes such as huckleberry
sauce-drizzled dry-aged duck breast with black truffle and
homemade spaghetti with octopus, mussels and prawns
— and does at his restaurants Spoon and Stable and
Demi in Minneapolis.
Still, Kaysen finds himself reliably returning to Grandma's
dishes, both on his menus at home and at his hot spots,
which also include Bellecour bistro in Edina, Minnesota,
Mediterranean-inspired Mara inside the Four Seasons
Hotel Minneapolis, and his Naples, Florida-based
brasserie, The Merchant Room.
"There are a lot of similarities between how I cook in all
areas of my life. At the end of the day, it's all about
nurturing people. Whether that's in the kitchen in my
house or at restaurants, that's the goal. The only
difference would be my kids are very quick to tell me if
they do not like something," Kaysen said, laughing.
Among the 100-plus recipes in his 2022 cookbook, "At
Home," you'll find his grandmother's pot roast (which is
currently on the Spoon and Stable menu), those beloved
chicken and dumplings, and the family-friendly recipes
Kaysen believes he might be known for one day.
"When my kids look back on their childhood, I think they'll
say spatchcock chicken or paella was my signature dish.
Both of these are included in the book, are in regular
rotation in my house," Kaysen said, adding these dishes
never get negative reviews from his crew.
As for chicken and dumplings, those in Minnesota can
score a ready-to-bake, single-serving chicken pot pie at
Bellecour that's essentially the same recipe, just stuffed
inside a pastry crust instead of studded with dumplings.
And anyone can try their hand at home with the recipe
below, which Kaysen is happy to share.
"I think it's extremely important to chronicle and carry on
family recipes. We are only as great as those who came
before us, and I carry on my grandma's memory through
her recipes," Kaysen said. "Everything I learn is on the
shoulders of someone who came before me, and this is a
way I can honor that."
Throughout the text, the author emphasizes that cooking
represents more than technical culinary ability.
Considering this perspective, analyze the information
presented in the article and identify the alternative that
best expresses the central role his grandmother played in
his professional and personal formation.
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